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Old 06-15-2018, 05:37 PM   #1
1greatpandawan
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06-08 Daytona 675

Anyone here has one?
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Old 06-15-2018, 05:55 PM   #2
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I recently bought an 07 but it's still on the East coast. Just taking a poll or did you have a specific question?
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Old 06-15-2018, 06:29 PM   #3
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I recently bought an 07 but it's still on the East coast. Just taking a poll or did you have a specific question?
I’m trying to bring mine back up and see if I can use a good working parts from a running bike before I buy either starter relay or R/R or stator (or maybe all 3 at the same time). Atm my bike has this modem starting up noise... fuel pump would prime and stuff , it just won’t crank.
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Old 06-16-2018, 06:39 AM   #4
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Is battery new or fully charged?

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Old 06-16-2018, 01:48 PM   #5
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Is battery new or fully charged?

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Tried 3 different batteries all fully charged.
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Old 06-16-2018, 03:41 PM   #6
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3 things you need for combustion: air, fuel and spark. Check those.

Then check your engine to see if it is seized up or not. How? Put in 1st or 2nd gear then turn the rear wheel. It it turns then engine isn't seized up.

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Old 06-20-2018, 07:05 PM   #7
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Won't crank or won't fire up?
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Old 06-21-2018, 02:10 PM   #8
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Check the on off switch and button for power with a multi meter. Then check positive from the regulator with and without the start button pressed. The stater charges the battery it won't keep it from starting
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Old 06-23-2018, 03:12 PM   #9
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Won't crank or won't fire up?

Exactly like this.... just want to make sure by swapping r/r or stator from a running bike before I pull the plug on new stator or r/r
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Old 06-24-2018, 08:36 AM   #10
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So we need to take this in order, and stator/rr is not in the path. The stator/rr just charges the battery. If this was the case, you would be solving the problem by first charging, which you don’t mention.

To make the bike turn over to start takes a well-charged battery, a starter and a relay.

I presume you have the bike on a charger and you’ve tested the voltage level before turning on the key. At rest it should be in the neighborhood of 12.2 v

Now we look at the starter and the relay.

The relay provides energy to the starter. The starter upon getting the energy turns the motor.

If either one is bad, you get the symptom in your video.

You need to determine if the relay is properly behaving and go from there.

One thing to do is have an assistant bridge the connection with a screwdriver while you stay at the controls.

Typing all this on my iPhone. Apologies for un-caught typos.
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Old 06-24-2018, 08:50 AM   #11
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Find item 27 in the fiche.
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Old 06-24-2018, 12:37 PM   #12
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Yes I would start by troubleshooting your no crank issue, borrow or buy a good Voltmeter. Start by doing a voltage drop across battery Pos to + Neg to - you should have 12.6V before cranking it over and no less than 9.6V when you hit the start button. If voltage drops below 9.6v you have a bad battery. If that checks out I would check for voltage at starter solenoid. Voltmeter Pos to solenoid signal wire and Neg to a good ground. If voltage is above 12v Id say you have a bad starter, assuming your engine is not seized.
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Old 06-24-2018, 05:08 PM   #13
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Quote:
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Yes I would start by troubleshooting your no crank issue, borrow or buy a good Voltmeter. Start by doing a voltage drop across battery Pos to + Neg to - you should have 12.6V before cranking it over and no less than 9.6V when you hit the start button. If voltage drops below 9.6v you have a bad battery. If that checks out I would check for voltage at starter solenoid. Voltmeter Pos to solenoid signal wire and Neg to a good ground. If voltage is above 12v I’d say you have a bad starter, assuming your engine is not seized.
No VM in hand so... I know it’s like a basic tool for electrical diagnostics. I’ll for sure report back once everything tested out. Thanks guys.
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Old 06-24-2018, 08:14 PM   #14
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what they said.

Sir, why don't you have a V.M? Harbor freight has a cheap one that works well for this type of diagnosing.
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...ter-63604.html
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Old 06-25-2018, 06:58 AM   #15
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Yeah VM is absolutely needed when troubleshooting electrical issues.
You can test the relay by connnecting its 85 & 86 terminal to couple wires and touch battery terminals. It should make clicking noise if the coil inside still works. It's only half part of relay testing though.
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Old 06-25-2018, 03:39 PM   #16
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Quote:
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what they said.

Sir, why don't you have a V.M? Harbor freight has a cheap one that works well for this type of diagnosing.
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...ter-63604.html
Well, I keep saving up some money for a fluke VM but keep finding good deal on parts lol.
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Old 06-25-2018, 06:27 PM   #17
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If you have NOTHING, a $3.99 Harbor Freight cheapy allows you to at least work on your bike, while you save your pennies for the $100+ Fluke.
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Old 06-26-2018, 10:52 AM   #18
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Guys, it's a multimeter, not a voltmeter! haha and I think I got mine for FREE at Harbor Freight (granted I did purchase other stuff)
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Old 06-26-2018, 01:55 PM   #19
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Guys, it's a multimeter, not a voltmeter! haha and I think I got mine for FREE at Harbor Freight (granted I did purchase other stuff)
��... jezzz can you just play along bwahahaha
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Old 08-17-2018, 11:06 PM   #20
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I have an 07. It won't even try to crank with less than optimal voltage. You can go to AutoZone and borrow a multimeter. Start there, and if that checks, I'd move onto the next. It should run with the stator disconnected, just not long. So I wouldn't inside it's that

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